Cimetiere du Montparnesse.

Located in the shadow of Tour Montparnasse, Cimetiere du Montparnasse offers a tranquil escape in the heart of the busy 14th arondissement. Opened in 1824, this cemetery is home to thousands of luminaries, many of the literary ilk. I arrived late on a Friday afternoon and didn’t realize that many of the grave sites were marked or that a map was available until the bell rang for closing at 6. I stumbled upon the tombstone of the famous French poet, Charles Baudelaire, and was struck by the lovely assemblage atop his tomb. A potpourri of roses, flower pots, and handwritten notes held in place by rocks was sweet yet melancholy. Apparently Baudelare, who died in Paris at the age of 46, was plagued through his life by despair and financial difficulties. At first, I hesitated to open the notes, but then decided that a quick read was permissible. The first, written today: “Quand j’ai trouve votre livre ‘Fleur du Mal’ sur le pont St. Louis, J’ai senti le distin. Vous n’etes pas mort. Vous vivez dans mon Coeur. Je t’aime. Loosely translated: “When I discovered your book ‘The Flowers of Evil’ on the bridge St Louis, I felt my destiny. You are not dead. You live in my heart. I love you.” Another, written yesterday: “Je vous etre ecrivain plus tard comme vous! Vous avez laissez beaucoup de beaux poemes!!! Avez le grace de Dieu soit avec vous!! De tout mon coeur!” Loosely translated: “I will be a writer later like you! You have left many beautiful poems!!! May the grace of God be with you!! With all my heart!” There is a real appreciation and warmth in these little notes held in place by rocks atop the famous poet’s tombstone. Reading about Baudelare, I discovered that he had a real affinity for Edgar Allen Poe with whom he found a kindred spirit whose concept of beauty was closely connected with melancholy, happiness and regret. This little assemblage atop his tombstone, sweet yet melancholy and hardly any regret.

Cimetiere du Montparnesse, Boulevard Edgar Quinet. [14e.]
Metro: Edgar Quinet.

Les Cocottes.

One of Christian Constant’s four restaurants located on rue Saint Dominique, Les Cocottes is a real treat. Serving traditional brasserie food, Les Cocottes is a more casual and reasonably priced option than Café Constant located on the same block. There was no wait when I arrived on Saturday afternoon for lunch. The décor was comfortable yet chic. Diners were seated at a long bar or high tables, both with stools. It’s perfect for parties of two or three. I was seated at the bar where I could view the cookbooks and cocottes for sale as well as the menu of the day written on a chalkboard. The wait staff was pleasant and amenable to speaking English. I wasn’t sure what a cocotte was, but I soon found out. My dinner arrived in one, a petite Dutch oven perfectly sized for one. I ordered the cod with potatoes and carrots. The waiter removed the cast iron lid and I gazed in amazement at the steaming dish below. Everything was perfectly prepared. The cod flaked easily; the carrots tenderly resisted the bite; the petite potatoes melted. The gravy or broth was absolutely delicious. All four slices of country bread and baguette scooped it up. The only morsel left unconsumed was the skin of the cod, which I nibbled and contemplated eating. I resisted the temptation however. I thought lunch was reasonably priced given the quality of the food, but it could become expensive if you add wine, salad and desert. I’ve heard the desserts are wonderful, but I indulged instead at the patisserie down the street. Lots of English is spoken here amidst French. Les Cocottes may attract tourists given that the Eiffel Tower is easily viewed. I dared to snap my camera after one bite of my cocotte hoping to go unnoticed by the wait staff and nearby diners. I did not wish to be charged with not observing French custom, which is to be completely present with your food. This was a meal to savor every moment.

Les Cocottes, 135 rue Saint Dominique. [7e.]
Metro: Pont de L’Alma
www.leviolondingres.com

Un Chat on the Island.

Tucked away in the corner of a building, Le Chat had the perfect vantage point to view both passersby and “les pigeons.” He attracted the attention of tourists and natives alike on rue St-Louis en L’Isle, a commercial thoroughfare on the quaint Isle Saint Louis. He quietly endured the cameras of snap happy tourists. He impressed with his statuesque demeanor, that is, until he spotted le pigeon across the street. Without checking for oncoming traffic, he dashed and then slowed so as to remain unseen. The flurry of activity caused “les gens” to pause and view the spectacle. Some sided with le chat, others with le pigeon. Quietly, he scanned his prey, oblivious to the murmurs of the crowd. A twist: now there were “les deux” to contend with as if one wasn’t enough. Without belaboring the inequities, he pounced albeit unsuccessfully. He rushed back to his doorway amid the cheers of the crowd. Again, he did not check “la rue” for the possibility of cars, bicycles, or motos. With the Parisian penchant for noisy cars and motos, he did not act imprudently as the noise would have alerted. He is Parisian nonetheless. Safely positioned inside the doorway, he was quickly greeted and praised by “un ami,” a yellow chat. After being scolded by the proprietor of the restaurant, he reassumed his position by the doorway in the corner of the building on rue St-Louis en L’Isle. Settled, he patiently awaited another opportunity.

Rue St-Louis en L’Isle, Isle Saint Louis. [4e].
Metro: Pont Marie.

Une Ratraite Jardin.

Le Marche aux Fleurs, a repose in the heart of the city. Footsteps away from Cite metro stop on Isle de la Cite, it protects from the nearby traffic and tourists flocking to Notre Dame. In existence since 1808, there are lots of small boutiques selling plants, flowers and accessories. Even orchids, carnivorous and rare plants are for sale. On Sundays, it transforms into “Le Marche aux Oiseaux,” selling birds, cages and bird feed. One blogger commented that birdcages are hardly consistent with the French passion for “Le Liberte.” Le Marche aux Fleurs, a destination or escape from nearby traffic, pedestrian and otherwise. One couple playing cards at a café style table obviously recognized the benefits of this verdant space. An inspiration for artists, it’s easy to slow down in this petite garden retreat.

Marche aux Fleurs, place Louis Lepin. [4e].
Metro: Cite.

Les Frigos.

In an area slated for redevelopment on the Rive Gauche between the Seine and the Bibliotheque Nationale, Les Frigos is inconsistent with the modern structures that surround it. Originally a refrigerated warehouse with trains passing through, “Les Frigos” is the French word for refrigerators. With the closing of Les Halles Market in the 60s, the refrigerated warehouses including Les Frigos saw their demise. An artists’ squat, it was sited for demotion in the mid-80s. Quoting those who supported its demolition, “Vous etes le germes de vie du quartier futur,” it’s apparent that the graffiti covered structure provoked controversy. Nonetheless, artists formed a coalition to save Les Frigos and establish a community where they could both live and work. Its supporters view it as a modern example of integrating artists into a city in general and Paris in particular. Currently, artists of different disciplines are in residence at Les Frigos. It opens to the public one weekend each year in the spring. Special expositions are listed on its site, www.les-frigos.com, along with contact information for individual artists if you wish to schedule a “rendez-vous.” Les Frigos, really cool.

Les Frigos, 19 rue des Frigos [13e].
Metro: Bibliotheque F. Mitterand.
www.les-frigos.com

Bio Market.

Looking for a bio market or just want to market like a Parisian on Sunday morning? Then map it and make it to the market on Boulevard Raspail. While organic produce is the main event, there’s more for the sampling: gourmet cheeses, fresh fish, and chicken rotisserie style. If cooked food’s your thing, don’t fret. The line in front of the grill marked "cheesy potato pancakes" attests to their greatness. If you are looking for lighter fare, look no further than “Le Riz et 8 Legumes.” Even if you don’t speak French, it’s easy to understand. Besides, it’s cooking in a giant pan that looks like a flying saucer and calls for tasting. It wasn’t ready before I parted, but several people oohed and ahhed. I did sample the nuts and “les pruneaux” at Epilia. Wonderful dried prunes! They kindly notify their customers on a paper bag of their upcoming “vacances.” They will be gone for a month nonetheless. If perfume is of interest, then try “I Love Les Carottes.” Well, it is an organic market. One couple braved the crowd with a double stroller “avec les enfants.” Standing behind, they were able to avoid saying, “pardon” (the French are ever so polite) while strolling down the corridor of bio. Before parting, one final stop at the boulangerie, Patibio, for a raisin roll. Heavenly. Even if you don’t partake in the food festival, it’s fabulous fun.

Marche Raspail, blvd Raspail near rue de Rennes [6e].
Metro: Rennes.

Contemporary River Seine.

The Allee Arthur Rimbaud on the River Seine is a delightful area for strolling, sunning or even swimming in the Piscine Josephine Baker, a floating swimming pool on the river. On one side, the River Seine with its boats, stationary and otherwise. On the other, riverside restaurants populate the Allee with just a strip above to protect diners and revelers from the sun. Lots of people-size plants, colorful table settings and chairs just for sunning, leave you hoping for a Jimmy Buffett tune. There are even lovely gardens between the Allee and the street above. Descending the steps to the Allee, you sense that an oasis resides below. A part of the city, yet a place apart. I entered the Allee on a weekday before noon so I didn’t get to feel its vibe when it is populated by “les gens.” But in an area that is home to contemporary architecture, the Bibliotheque Nationale de France and a glamorous strip of interior design shops, I am hedging that the Allee attracts.

Allee Arthur Rimbaud between Pont de Tolbiac and Pont de Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir [13e].
Metro: Bibliotheque F. Mitterrand

Flea Market Finds: Porte de Vanves.

Looking for bargains. Head out on Saturday or Sunday morning to the weekly flea market at Portes de Vanves. Right around the corner from the metro stop, it spans two streets. I arrived early either hoping for a bargain or to beat the crowds. Albeit, I am not an ardent flea market shopper, but I am curious. Crowds were light early in the morning. Scanning the first table, I noticed items as diverse as cigarette lighters, pens, pocketknives, watches and rosary beads. Buttons and pillboxes were also proudly featured. The French fascination with postcards was apparent: they were stacked, boxed, displayed in books and old wash bins. Book titles included “Les Plantes de Monde” and “Le Elephant de Mer,” loosely translated as “Plants of the World” and “Elephant of the Sea.” Not enough to intrigue me to open them. Lots of empty picture frames, some very interesting, to display your art treasures. Some jewelry, not always moderately priced. I looked at a ring priced at 590e. That one was protected behind glass. Another table included an affiche, “20e au choix,” meaning you had your choice of any item for only 20e. Unfortunately, old keys didn’t interest me. While I didn’t buy I’ve heard that bargaining is expected, and bring lots of cash, credit cards aren’t accepted.

Open Sat and Sun 7 am to 1 pm.
Metro: Portes de Vanves [14e].

Metro Art: "Les Oiseaux."

In the heart of the Left Bank’s Latin Quarter, the Cluny-La Sorbonne metro stop illuminates. “Les Oiseaux,” a mosaic of two large birds surrounded by signatures of famous French intellectuals, artists, and scientists, dominates the ceiling and walls of the station. Created by French artist, Jean Bazaine, when the station was refurbished in 1988, it is definitely worth a trip. Bazaine, who is best known for his paintings, also completed a series of stained glass windows at the Saint Severin Church (Eglise Staint-Severin) nearby. Inspired by the seven sacraments, he titled the piece “Marriage from the Seven Sacraments.” While most of Paris’s metro stations have column free vaults and white beveled tiles that look uniform throughout, there are a few truly elegant ones. In Paris, it’s not necessary to go to the Louvre to appreciate art. A metro stop will do.

Metro Cluny-La Sorbonne (line 10). [5e].
Eglise Saint-Severin, 26 Rue Saint-Severin, Metro Cluny-La Sorbonne. [5e].
http://www.traveltowork.net/2009/05/top-10-metro-stations-in-paris/

Small Trades.

An exhibition of Irving Penn’s photographs dating back to 1950-1951 is on view at the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson. “Small Trades” is a series of photographs of individuals in their work clothes and adornments. Taken in the natural light of his studio instead of their work environment, Penn hoped to introduce an essential equality between them. Penn used the studio not to isolate, but to transform. Penn’s interest in the project started with a growing awareness that in the post World War II environment, many of these occupations would soon disappear. Penn’s photos are marked by the simplicity and rigor that are trademarks of his style at Vogue. Taken in Paris, London, and New York, photographs of the same tradesman or woman are, not surprisingly, very different. Some of the trades have quietly endured: newsman, mailman, plumber and nurse. Their tools of the trade vary, however. Others have gone extinct: coachman, organ grinder and tinsmith (I laughed at that one.) I am not sure if the Rag & Bone Man, London 1951, still exists today. May have to go to London to find out.

Fondation Henry Cartier-Bresson
2 Impasse Lebouis [14e]
www.henricartierbresson.org
Irving Penn, "Les Petits Metiers" through July 25th

Muscade, rue de Montpensier.

Searching for a quiet “dejeuner” near the Palais Royal, I entered Muscade located on the rue de Montpensier. It offered a quiet retreat, complete with a copper topped bar and tables and black upholstered chairs. The floor to ceiling windows opened to the courtyard of the Palais Royal. A relaxed yet elegant setting. While there were tables outside in the courtyard, it rained earlier and the wet sand was unappealing. I returned to gazing out the windows and enjoying the music when “It’s a Heat Wave” entered the room followed by commercials. A bit of a blip…. I ordered a “salade composee” consisting of lettuce, a poached egg, artichokes and feta. While the egg was cooked to perfection, the rest was lackluster and too heavily dressed. The menu was overpriced (my “salade” was 13.50e), but given the view this was easily forgiven. All was well until I asked, “Ou est la toilette?” and was pleased to hear that it was not located “en bas.” Most toilets in Paris cafes and restaurants require a journey to the basement. I wasn’t sure about the pipe jutting from the wall, however, but since I didn’t spot a faucet I pushed. No water, but I didn’t dare ask for assistance. Outside, I plopped down on the sidewalk to make a few notes. The cook, on a smoke break, asked, “Did you enjoy your lunch?” “It was very nice,” I replied. Perhaps he suspected a blog post. Next time, I will have to swap my index cards for electronic notes. Then he will never suspect.

Muscade, 36 rue de Montpensier. [1e]
www.muscade-palais-royal.com
01 42 97 51 36
Métro : Pyramides

The Islands.

While there are street entertainers galore in Paris, Pont St-Louis always seems occupied by a group of musicians. It connects Isle de la Cite with Isle St-Louis and is one of the most romantic spots in the city. In early evening or after dark, you can enjoy watching people strolling the bridge or boats gliding down the Seine. If inclined, curbside entertainment is available. Both islands are located in the heart of central Paris yet couldn’t be more different. Isle de la Cite houses Notre Dame and its accompanying hoards of tourists, while Isle St-Louis has a real village feel. It is a great place to meander while making time to explore interesting shops, visit two great ice cream venues (one French; the other Italian) and of course, stop in a café or two to enjoy the view or rest your pieds. A lovely way to spend the afternoon.


Berthillon (ice cream), 31 rue St-Louis-en-I’lle, Ile St-Louis [1st].

Amorino (gelato), 47 rue St-Louis-en-I’lle, Ile St-Louis [1st].

Paris Passages.

Discovering the covered passages located along the Right Bank is a wonderful way to spend a morning. Part of the fun is finding them. While they are all marked, they can appear inconspicuous until you enter. These covered shopping arcades (couverts) hail from the 19th century when they offered an environment protected from the streets (apparently there were no sewers at the time.) There are less than two dozen remaining today, located primarily in the 2nd and 9th arondissements. Most are within easy walking distance of the Palais Royal. They are definitely a varied lot. I found Galerie Vivienne to be the most stunning with lots of upscale shops and Passage Jouffrey to the most fun with a wonderful pastry shop, which I plan to become acquainted. Passage Choiseul has an Asian vibe. The entrances are fantastic, inside and out. I loved the way the light illuminated the decorative doorways and the contrast between dark and light. I also loved entering each one and being wonderfully surprised by what was inside. Definitely worth a trip back in time!

Le Chat.

I encountered Le Chat in the tiny passage St-Paul off Rue St-Paul.  I was searching for the Jesuit church, Eglise St-Paul St-Louis. While a door revealed a church inside, exterior buildings covered the rest.  Upon exiting the tiny passage, I noticed Le Chat seated below an open window.  While at first he seemed only concerned with securing the attention of the occupants inside; he quickly surmised that an encounter with me could produce a pleasant result.  We made our polite acquaintances.  Greetings such as “Bon chat” and “Bon journee” are both acceptable. A lyrical tone will quickly put him at ease.  If these niceties go well, you may assume a squatting position (do not assume this position if you have knee problems as elevation may prove futile.) Proceed slowly with Le Chat.  A back rub may be too aggressive and the rest of your morning will not be pleasant.  Remember, a gentle approach is most prudent.  In making your departure, arise slowly and while still speaking in a considerate tone, make your polite goodbyes.   Le Chat will most likely reassume his position below the window once you are gone.  Le Chat, a delightful “etranger” in the tiny passage of St-Paul.  

Eglise St-Paul St-Louis, Passage St-Paul off Rue St-Paul [4e].

Le Metro.

Best to be fully informed before navigating the metro during the hot summer months. First, the rules of airplane travel do not apply. Get a window seat, not an aisle. Passengers stand in the aisle so any attempt at securing personal space or planning an easy exit will be lost. Second, do not sit near the doors. You will be at eye level with body parts that are best reserved for the bedroom. If you have to stand (which is most of the time), try to stand near a window. This will give you the best opportunity for a breeze. Don’t expect A/C on the metros in Paris; there is none. In order to fit in, it’s important that you bring a book and open it, but don’t read it. If you read it, you will miss your stop. While metro stations are clearly marked, signs can be invisible through the crowds. Sometimes there is an announcement of the station, but remember it is French and not English and it sounds like French and not English. If someone comes pouncing down the aisle proclaiming “Bonjour Monsieur, Madame,” followed by a litany of words you don’t understand, pick up the book you are not reading. There are panhandlers galore on the metros in Paris and they ride the rails for free. If he is accompanied by “un chien,” it’s best to have two books or you will soon be supporting both him and his pup. Last but not least, remember not to smile. It’s the metro way.