Un Cafe Litteraire.

Still one of the most famous cafes in Paris, Les Deux Magots was once home to the literary and intellectual elite. Names like Jean Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and Ernest Hemingway were among its frequent visitors. Now popular with both tourists and Parisians alike, it offers a great station for people-watching as it is located right on boulevard St-Germain across from the Eglise St-Germain des Pres. Although not inexpensive, the cost of a café crème or a Perrier will earn you the right to enjoy the view for as long as you like. Unlike American restaurants, the waiter will not pressure you to order food or to abandon your table. “Magots” is the French word for Chinese porcelain figurines and was the name of the shop that preceded the café (and the shop sold such figurines), so they stuck with the name. The name is based on a popular play in China “Les Deux Magots de la Chine” or “Two Figurines from China.” Today, two wooden statutes of the Magots adorn one of the pillars inside. While its Left Bank neighborhood is no longer the hotbed of artistic and intellectual life that it was in the 1950s, Les Deux Magots has continued to maintain its status as a draw for aspiring writers by awarding an annual literary prize to a French writer of note. Today, St-Germain des Pres is more affluent with antique shops, designer fashion boutiques, and trendy shops. Still, it is rumored that Les Deux Magots has the best hot chocolate in Paris. That and the fact that it is a Paris institution make it worth a trip.

Les Deux Magots, 6 place St-Germain des Pres. [6e.]
www.lesdeuxmagots.fr
Metro: St-Germain des Pres.

Cimetiere du Montparnesse.

Located in the shadow of Tour Montparnasse, Cimetiere du Montparnasse offers a tranquil escape in the heart of the busy 14th arondissement. Opened in 1824, this cemetery is home to thousands of luminaries, many of the literary ilk. I arrived late on a Friday afternoon and didn’t realize that many of the grave sites were marked or that a map was available until the bell rang for closing at 6. I stumbled upon the tombstone of the famous French poet, Charles Baudelaire, and was struck by the lovely assemblage atop his tomb. A potpourri of roses, flower pots, and handwritten notes held in place by rocks was sweet yet melancholy. Apparently Baudelare, who died in Paris at the age of 46, was plagued through his life by despair and financial difficulties. At first, I hesitated to open the notes, but then decided that a quick read was permissible. The first, written today: “Quand j’ai trouve votre livre ‘Fleur du Mal’ sur le pont St. Louis, J’ai senti le distin. Vous n’etes pas mort. Vous vivez dans mon Coeur. Je t’aime. Loosely translated: “When I discovered your book ‘The Flowers of Evil’ on the bridge St Louis, I felt my destiny. You are not dead. You live in my heart. I love you.” Another, written yesterday: “Je vous etre ecrivain plus tard comme vous! Vous avez laissez beaucoup de beaux poemes!!! Avez le grace de Dieu soit avec vous!! De tout mon coeur!” Loosely translated: “I will be a writer later like you! You have left many beautiful poems!!! May the grace of God be with you!! With all my heart!” There is a real appreciation and warmth in these little notes held in place by rocks atop the famous poet’s tombstone. Reading about Baudelare, I discovered that he had a real affinity for Edgar Allen Poe with whom he found a kindred spirit whose concept of beauty was closely connected with melancholy, happiness and regret. This little assemblage atop his tombstone, sweet yet melancholy and hardly any regret.

Cimetiere du Montparnesse, Boulevard Edgar Quinet. [14e.]
Metro: Edgar Quinet.