Un Cafe Litteraire.

Still one of the most famous cafes in Paris, Les Deux Magots was once home to the literary and intellectual elite. Names like Jean Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and Ernest Hemingway were among its frequent visitors. Now popular with both tourists and Parisians alike, it offers a great station for people-watching as it is located right on boulevard St-Germain across from the Eglise St-Germain des Pres. Although not inexpensive, the cost of a café crème or a Perrier will earn you the right to enjoy the view for as long as you like. Unlike American restaurants, the waiter will not pressure you to order food or to abandon your table. “Magots” is the French word for Chinese porcelain figurines and was the name of the shop that preceded the café (and the shop sold such figurines), so they stuck with the name. The name is based on a popular play in China “Les Deux Magots de la Chine” or “Two Figurines from China.” Today, two wooden statutes of the Magots adorn one of the pillars inside. While its Left Bank neighborhood is no longer the hotbed of artistic and intellectual life that it was in the 1950s, Les Deux Magots has continued to maintain its status as a draw for aspiring writers by awarding an annual literary prize to a French writer of note. Today, St-Germain des Pres is more affluent with antique shops, designer fashion boutiques, and trendy shops. Still, it is rumored that Les Deux Magots has the best hot chocolate in Paris. That and the fact that it is a Paris institution make it worth a trip.

Les Deux Magots, 6 place St-Germain des Pres. [6e.]
www.lesdeuxmagots.fr
Metro: St-Germain des Pres.

Les Cocottes.

One of Christian Constant’s four restaurants located on rue Saint Dominique, Les Cocottes is a real treat. Serving traditional brasserie food, Les Cocottes is a more casual and reasonably priced option than Café Constant located on the same block. There was no wait when I arrived on Saturday afternoon for lunch. The décor was comfortable yet chic. Diners were seated at a long bar or high tables, both with stools. It’s perfect for parties of two or three. I was seated at the bar where I could view the cookbooks and cocottes for sale as well as the menu of the day written on a chalkboard. The wait staff was pleasant and amenable to speaking English. I wasn’t sure what a cocotte was, but I soon found out. My dinner arrived in one, a petite Dutch oven perfectly sized for one. I ordered the cod with potatoes and carrots. The waiter removed the cast iron lid and I gazed in amazement at the steaming dish below. Everything was perfectly prepared. The cod flaked easily; the carrots tenderly resisted the bite; the petite potatoes melted. The gravy or broth was absolutely delicious. All four slices of country bread and baguette scooped it up. The only morsel left unconsumed was the skin of the cod, which I nibbled and contemplated eating. I resisted the temptation however. I thought lunch was reasonably priced given the quality of the food, but it could become expensive if you add wine, salad and desert. I’ve heard the desserts are wonderful, but I indulged instead at the patisserie down the street. Lots of English is spoken here amidst French. Les Cocottes may attract tourists given that the Eiffel Tower is easily viewed. I dared to snap my camera after one bite of my cocotte hoping to go unnoticed by the wait staff and nearby diners. I did not wish to be charged with not observing French custom, which is to be completely present with your food. This was a meal to savor every moment.

Les Cocottes, 135 rue Saint Dominique. [7e.]
Metro: Pont de L’Alma
www.leviolondingres.com

Muscade, rue de Montpensier.

Searching for a quiet “dejeuner” near the Palais Royal, I entered Muscade located on the rue de Montpensier. It offered a quiet retreat, complete with a copper topped bar and tables and black upholstered chairs. The floor to ceiling windows opened to the courtyard of the Palais Royal. A relaxed yet elegant setting. While there were tables outside in the courtyard, it rained earlier and the wet sand was unappealing. I returned to gazing out the windows and enjoying the music when “It’s a Heat Wave” entered the room followed by commercials. A bit of a blip…. I ordered a “salade composee” consisting of lettuce, a poached egg, artichokes and feta. While the egg was cooked to perfection, the rest was lackluster and too heavily dressed. The menu was overpriced (my “salade” was 13.50e), but given the view this was easily forgiven. All was well until I asked, “Ou est la toilette?” and was pleased to hear that it was not located “en bas.” Most toilets in Paris cafes and restaurants require a journey to the basement. I wasn’t sure about the pipe jutting from the wall, however, but since I didn’t spot a faucet I pushed. No water, but I didn’t dare ask for assistance. Outside, I plopped down on the sidewalk to make a few notes. The cook, on a smoke break, asked, “Did you enjoy your lunch?” “It was very nice,” I replied. Perhaps he suspected a blog post. Next time, I will have to swap my index cards for electronic notes. Then he will never suspect.

Muscade, 36 rue de Montpensier. [1e]
www.muscade-palais-royal.com
01 42 97 51 36
Métro : Pyramides

Chez Marianne. Le Marais.

Chez Marianne. Middle Eastern café located in the heart of the Marais. It may attract a lunch crowd, but dinner particularly inside was quiet. Salmon, s’il vous plait. A plateful of smoked salmon arrived unappealing. The proprietor, while kind enough to take it back looked none too happy. At least, he didn’t smile. Next, “Les Assiettes Composees.” This is a popular selection with small, medium, and large plates available. Prices range from 12 to 16 Euros; a plate for two can be shared for 26. Un petit plat, s’il vous plait. The stuffed grape leaves were divine. Tabouleh should have lots of parsley and be very fresh tasting; not at Chez Marianne. There was enough garlic on the diced tomato salad and green peppers to keep Count Dracula away. While falafel balls are one of my favorites, the cold balls didn’t tempt. I won't be back to sample them. Chez Marianne, a disappointment to be sure.

Chez Marianne, 2 rue des Hospitalieres-St Gervais [4e].

L'As du Falafel. Le Marais.

L’As du Falafel. As good as the guidebook said it would be. A falafel joint located at 34 rue des Rosiers offers take-out and eat-in dining. I arrived at 11:00 a.m., starving after two hours following a walking tour in the Marais. My falafel arrived piping hot and overflowing with vegetables and sauce. I never had a falafel with shredded red cabbage, but I loved it. I sat comfortably on one of the chairs outside (no tables, I am afraid) with two napkins instead of one (bright yellow may I add). I couldn’t be happier and all for 5 Euros. Best falafel I have ever eaten. There are several falafel restaurants on Rue des Rosiers. I may have to sample them all!