Un Chat au Repos.

Enjoying an afternoon repose, Le Chat didn’t seem to be worried about when his café located on rue des Deux-Ponts, Isle St-Louis, would reopen for the dinner hour or when he would be required to forfeit his place on the bar. He remained completely free of mental stress even though the café had not yet closed for its month-long vacation. He could adjust, although not always happily. In any event, he seemed to be enjoying his freedom from activity and he certainly wasn’t bothered by the need to work or to create responsibility of any sort. While having his picture taken was a nuisance, he complied as it did not require extraordinary effort. Besides, it offered him the opportunity to adjust his posture from time to time. He realized that some would view his repose as slothful inactivity; to him, it was an antidote to the myriad of distractions in Paris. Unless there existed an urgent matter, he would not be pressed. He looked for a brief moment as I put my camera away. Then, completely at ease, he dropped his head to the bar. Even in “une grande ville” like Paris, he could enjoy this quiet moment neither asleep nor awake without agenda, purpose or goals. Le Chat, completely relaxed and free.

Isle St-Louis. [4e.]
Metro: Pont Marie

Queue up for Ice Cream.

Flavors like fig, green apple, and caramel ginger will keep you waiting at Berthillon, listed as a “must” for ice cream and sorbet enthusiasts in most guidebooks. Founded in 1954 by Raymond Berthillon, it uses only natural ingredients and the fruit flavors are fabulous. If you don’t want to wait in line at the shop located at 31, rue St-Louis en l’isle, don’t fret as the Berthillon brand is served in many other ice cream parlors and brasseries around Paris and particularly on the Isle St-Louis. While it is distributed to hundreds of resellers in the Isle de France, you can’t find it outside the Paris region. It makes 70 flavors of ice cream and sorbet with 30 available on any given day. For a complete list, view its website, www.berthillon.fr. Ice cream to go can be fun as it is the perfect accompaniment for strolling the nearby River Seine or catching a glimpse of Notre Dame Cathedral. If service is more appealing, enjoy your treat at the adjacent “Salon du The.” Berthillon has even inspired some to book their hotel room based on its vicinity to the 70 flavors. J wrote, “I read about this place in a guidebook. It was the deciding factor as to which area of Paris we would rent an apartment.” This was before she even paid a visit. Also, “It’s a complete and total whole body experience.” Did she mean an out of body experience? And, “My first lick of Noisette ice cream caused me to stagger from the impact of it upon my tastebuds.” See http://www.paristriptips.com/where-to-eat/specialty/berthillon/. “Stagger” is an interesting word to use when describing ice cream. Fortunately, her hotel was located nearby. The prices here are very reasonable when you consider that commercial ice creams are as (if not more) expensive. Berthillon, consider a trip.

Berthillon, 31, rue St-Louis en l’isle, Isle St-Louis. [4th.]
www.berthillon.fr
Metro: Pont Marie

A Traveler's Haven.

A mountain of books, magazines, maps and postcards waits at Librarie Ulysse, the oldest specialty bookstore about travel in the world. Founded by Catherine Domain, a voracious traveler, who paused in 1971 to set down roots in her home on Ile Saint Louis, she wondered what to do. After searching a dozen bookstores for information on a country as close as Greece, she decided to open a bookstore dedicated to travel. Over 20,000 titles of new and used books fill this tiny shop on rue Saint Louis en l’Ile. On her website, Catherine reports that she begins her 38th year (updated in 2009) in “a good mood” and she continues to be fascinated by both people and books. She is also aware of doing a magnificent job that will soon disappear (what with all the electronic media.) She only asks to be wrong!! While she stated in a 2000 interview, “The Internet is a pain in the neck,” she also realized that it would render all specialty bookstores extinct. See http://www.etudes-francaises.net/entretiens/domain.htm. Catherine adds a personal touch to her site, www.ulysse.fr. On the Events page, events are updated weekly usually on Sunday. If you are searching for a travel resource, you can input your information and receive “le conseile,” French for “advice.” Pessimism about the future is hardly evident at this special place located on rue Saint Louis en l'Ile.

Librarie Ulysse, 26, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle. [4th.]
Metro: Pont Marie
www.ulysse.fr

Un Chat on the Island.

Tucked away in the corner of a building, Le Chat had the perfect vantage point to view both passersby and “les pigeons.” He attracted the attention of tourists and natives alike on rue St-Louis en L’Isle, a commercial thoroughfare on the quaint Isle Saint Louis. He quietly endured the cameras of snap happy tourists. He impressed with his statuesque demeanor, that is, until he spotted le pigeon across the street. Without checking for oncoming traffic, he dashed and then slowed so as to remain unseen. The flurry of activity caused “les gens” to pause and view the spectacle. Some sided with le chat, others with le pigeon. Quietly, he scanned his prey, oblivious to the murmurs of the crowd. A twist: now there were “les deux” to contend with as if one wasn’t enough. Without belaboring the inequities, he pounced albeit unsuccessfully. He rushed back to his doorway amid the cheers of the crowd. Again, he did not check “la rue” for the possibility of cars, bicycles, or motos. With the Parisian penchant for noisy cars and motos, he did not act imprudently as the noise would have alerted. He is Parisian nonetheless. Safely positioned inside the doorway, he was quickly greeted and praised by “un ami,” a yellow chat. After being scolded by the proprietor of the restaurant, he reassumed his position by the doorway in the corner of the building on rue St-Louis en L’Isle. Settled, he patiently awaited another opportunity.

Rue St-Louis en L’Isle, Isle Saint Louis. [4e].
Metro: Pont Marie.

Une Ratraite Jardin.

Le Marche aux Fleurs, a repose in the heart of the city. Footsteps away from Cite metro stop on Isle de la Cite, it protects from the nearby traffic and tourists flocking to Notre Dame. In existence since 1808, there are lots of small boutiques selling plants, flowers and accessories. Even orchids, carnivorous and rare plants are for sale. On Sundays, it transforms into “Le Marche aux Oiseaux,” selling birds, cages and bird feed. One blogger commented that birdcages are hardly consistent with the French passion for “Le Liberte.” Le Marche aux Fleurs, a destination or escape from nearby traffic, pedestrian and otherwise. One couple playing cards at a café style table obviously recognized the benefits of this verdant space. An inspiration for artists, it’s easy to slow down in this petite garden retreat.

Marche aux Fleurs, place Louis Lepin. [4e].
Metro: Cite.

The Islands.

While there are street entertainers galore in Paris, Pont St-Louis always seems occupied by a group of musicians. It connects Isle de la Cite with Isle St-Louis and is one of the most romantic spots in the city. In early evening or after dark, you can enjoy watching people strolling the bridge or boats gliding down the Seine. If inclined, curbside entertainment is available. Both islands are located in the heart of central Paris yet couldn’t be more different. Isle de la Cite houses Notre Dame and its accompanying hoards of tourists, while Isle St-Louis has a real village feel. It is a great place to meander while making time to explore interesting shops, visit two great ice cream venues (one French; the other Italian) and of course, stop in a café or two to enjoy the view or rest your pieds. A lovely way to spend the afternoon.


Berthillon (ice cream), 31 rue St-Louis-en-I’lle, Ile St-Louis [1st].

Amorino (gelato), 47 rue St-Louis-en-I’lle, Ile St-Louis [1st].

Le Chat.

I encountered Le Chat in the tiny passage St-Paul off Rue St-Paul.  I was searching for the Jesuit church, Eglise St-Paul St-Louis. While a door revealed a church inside, exterior buildings covered the rest.  Upon exiting the tiny passage, I noticed Le Chat seated below an open window.  While at first he seemed only concerned with securing the attention of the occupants inside; he quickly surmised that an encounter with me could produce a pleasant result.  We made our polite acquaintances.  Greetings such as “Bon chat” and “Bon journee” are both acceptable. A lyrical tone will quickly put him at ease.  If these niceties go well, you may assume a squatting position (do not assume this position if you have knee problems as elevation may prove futile.) Proceed slowly with Le Chat.  A back rub may be too aggressive and the rest of your morning will not be pleasant.  Remember, a gentle approach is most prudent.  In making your departure, arise slowly and while still speaking in a considerate tone, make your polite goodbyes.   Le Chat will most likely reassume his position below the window once you are gone.  Le Chat, a delightful “etranger” in the tiny passage of St-Paul.  

Eglise St-Paul St-Louis, Passage St-Paul off Rue St-Paul [4e].

Chez Marianne. Le Marais.

Chez Marianne. Middle Eastern café located in the heart of the Marais. It may attract a lunch crowd, but dinner particularly inside was quiet. Salmon, s’il vous plait. A plateful of smoked salmon arrived unappealing. The proprietor, while kind enough to take it back looked none too happy. At least, he didn’t smile. Next, “Les Assiettes Composees.” This is a popular selection with small, medium, and large plates available. Prices range from 12 to 16 Euros; a plate for two can be shared for 26. Un petit plat, s’il vous plait. The stuffed grape leaves were divine. Tabouleh should have lots of parsley and be very fresh tasting; not at Chez Marianne. There was enough garlic on the diced tomato salad and green peppers to keep Count Dracula away. While falafel balls are one of my favorites, the cold balls didn’t tempt. I won't be back to sample them. Chez Marianne, a disappointment to be sure.

Chez Marianne, 2 rue des Hospitalieres-St Gervais [4e].

L'As du Falafel. Le Marais.

L’As du Falafel. As good as the guidebook said it would be. A falafel joint located at 34 rue des Rosiers offers take-out and eat-in dining. I arrived at 11:00 a.m., starving after two hours following a walking tour in the Marais. My falafel arrived piping hot and overflowing with vegetables and sauce. I never had a falafel with shredded red cabbage, but I loved it. I sat comfortably on one of the chairs outside (no tables, I am afraid) with two napkins instead of one (bright yellow may I add). I couldn’t be happier and all for 5 Euros. Best falafel I have ever eaten. There are several falafel restaurants on Rue des Rosiers. I may have to sample them all!