Located in the shadow of Tour Montparnasse, Cimetiere du Montparnasse offers a tranquil escape in the heart of the busy 14th arondissement. Opened in 1824, this cemetery is home to thousands of luminaries, many of the literary ilk. I arrived late on a Friday afternoon and didn’t realize that many of the grave sites were marked or that a map was available until the bell rang for closing at 6. I stumbled upon the tombstone of the famous French poet, Charles Baudelaire, and was struck by the lovely assemblage atop his tomb. A potpourri of roses, flower pots, and handwritten notes held in place by rocks was sweet yet melancholy. Apparently Baudelare, who died in Paris at the age of 46, was plagued through his life by despair and financial difficulties. At first, I hesitated to open the notes, but then decided that a quick read was permissible. The first, written today: “Quand j’ai trouve votre livre ‘Fleur du Mal’ sur le pont St. Louis, J’ai senti le distin. Vous n’etes pas mort. Vous vivez dans mon Coeur. Je t’aime. Loosely translated: “When I discovered your book ‘The Flowers of Evil’ on the bridge St Louis, I felt my destiny. You are not dead. You live in my heart. I love you.” Another, written yesterday: “Je vous etre ecrivain plus tard comme vous! Vous avez laissez beaucoup de beaux poemes!!! Avez le grace de Dieu soit avec vous!! De tout mon coeur!” Loosely translated: “I will be a writer later like you! You have left many beautiful poems!!! May the grace of God be with you!! With all my heart!” There is a real appreciation and warmth in these little notes held in place by rocks atop the famous poet’s tombstone. Reading about Baudelare, I discovered that he had a real affinity for Edgar Allen Poe with whom he found a kindred spirit whose concept of beauty was closely connected with melancholy, happiness and regret. This little assemblage atop his tombstone, sweet yet melancholy and hardly any regret. Cimetiere du Montparnesse, Boulevard Edgar Quinet. [14e.]
Metro: Edgar Quinet.
