Un Chat au Repos.

Enjoying an afternoon repose, Le Chat didn’t seem to be worried about when his café located on rue des Deux-Ponts, Isle St-Louis, would reopen for the dinner hour or when he would be required to forfeit his place on the bar. He remained completely free of mental stress even though the café had not yet closed for its month-long vacation. He could adjust, although not always happily. In any event, he seemed to be enjoying his freedom from activity and he certainly wasn’t bothered by the need to work or to create responsibility of any sort. While having his picture taken was a nuisance, he complied as it did not require extraordinary effort. Besides, it offered him the opportunity to adjust his posture from time to time. He realized that some would view his repose as slothful inactivity; to him, it was an antidote to the myriad of distractions in Paris. Unless there existed an urgent matter, he would not be pressed. He looked for a brief moment as I put my camera away. Then, completely at ease, he dropped his head to the bar. Even in “une grande ville” like Paris, he could enjoy this quiet moment neither asleep nor awake without agenda, purpose or goals. Le Chat, completely relaxed and free.

Isle St-Louis. [4e.]
Metro: Pont Marie

Un Cafe Litteraire.

Still one of the most famous cafes in Paris, Les Deux Magots was once home to the literary and intellectual elite. Names like Jean Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and Ernest Hemingway were among its frequent visitors. Now popular with both tourists and Parisians alike, it offers a great station for people-watching as it is located right on boulevard St-Germain across from the Eglise St-Germain des Pres. Although not inexpensive, the cost of a café crème or a Perrier will earn you the right to enjoy the view for as long as you like. Unlike American restaurants, the waiter will not pressure you to order food or to abandon your table. “Magots” is the French word for Chinese porcelain figurines and was the name of the shop that preceded the café (and the shop sold such figurines), so they stuck with the name. The name is based on a popular play in China “Les Deux Magots de la Chine” or “Two Figurines from China.” Today, two wooden statutes of the Magots adorn one of the pillars inside. While its Left Bank neighborhood is no longer the hotbed of artistic and intellectual life that it was in the 1950s, Les Deux Magots has continued to maintain its status as a draw for aspiring writers by awarding an annual literary prize to a French writer of note. Today, St-Germain des Pres is more affluent with antique shops, designer fashion boutiques, and trendy shops. Still, it is rumored that Les Deux Magots has the best hot chocolate in Paris. That and the fact that it is a Paris institution make it worth a trip.

Les Deux Magots, 6 place St-Germain des Pres. [6e.]
www.lesdeuxmagots.fr
Metro: St-Germain des Pres.

The Eternal Flame.

A gift from the U.S. to France to commemorate the 1986 centennial of the Statue of Liberty and to celebrate friendship between the two countries, La Flame de la Liberte is an exact replica of the torch atop the Statue of Liberty. The gold-leafed torch is mounted on a black pentagram (five-pointed star) at the intersection of place de l’Alma and avenue de New York. While another Flame of Liberty statue was inaugurated in 2008 at the U.S. Embassy in Paris, the first continues to be one of the most visited monuments in Paris particularly since the 1997 death of Princess Diana, which occurred in the tunnel directly underneath. It has become a pilgrimage for those who want to see where Princess Di was killed and admirers leave flowers, notes, and pictures in remembrance. It was expected that the place de l’Alma was to be renamed place Maria Callas but this was abandoned after Diana’s death. It was also envisioned to take up the name of Diana, but this was also abandoned after opposition from England. Princess Di’s death was allegedly the result of a high-speed chase with overzealous paparazzi. Her companion Dodi Fayed was also killed in the crash. While her death was determined to be accidental, conspiracy theorists have linked the torch, which they believe to be a hidden symbol of the intentions of the Illuminati to the world and Diana’s death, which they believed to be organized by the Illuminati. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illuminati provides information on this secret organization purported to exist today. Some even say that the torch was placed on purpose as an indicator of the planned assassination of Princess Diana. See http://vigilantcitizen.com/?p=503. Whatever you believe, Elton John’s tribute to Diana, “A Candle in the Wind” is quite literally that.

La Flame de la Liberte, entranceway to Pont de l’Alma Tunnel. [8th.]
Metro: Alma Marceau

Queue up for Ice Cream.

Flavors like fig, green apple, and caramel ginger will keep you waiting at Berthillon, listed as a “must” for ice cream and sorbet enthusiasts in most guidebooks. Founded in 1954 by Raymond Berthillon, it uses only natural ingredients and the fruit flavors are fabulous. If you don’t want to wait in line at the shop located at 31, rue St-Louis en l’isle, don’t fret as the Berthillon brand is served in many other ice cream parlors and brasseries around Paris and particularly on the Isle St-Louis. While it is distributed to hundreds of resellers in the Isle de France, you can’t find it outside the Paris region. It makes 70 flavors of ice cream and sorbet with 30 available on any given day. For a complete list, view its website, www.berthillon.fr. Ice cream to go can be fun as it is the perfect accompaniment for strolling the nearby River Seine or catching a glimpse of Notre Dame Cathedral. If service is more appealing, enjoy your treat at the adjacent “Salon du The.” Berthillon has even inspired some to book their hotel room based on its vicinity to the 70 flavors. J wrote, “I read about this place in a guidebook. It was the deciding factor as to which area of Paris we would rent an apartment.” This was before she even paid a visit. Also, “It’s a complete and total whole body experience.” Did she mean an out of body experience? And, “My first lick of Noisette ice cream caused me to stagger from the impact of it upon my tastebuds.” See http://www.paristriptips.com/where-to-eat/specialty/berthillon/. “Stagger” is an interesting word to use when describing ice cream. Fortunately, her hotel was located nearby. The prices here are very reasonable when you consider that commercial ice creams are as (if not more) expensive. Berthillon, consider a trip.

Berthillon, 31, rue St-Louis en l’isle, Isle St-Louis. [4th.]
www.berthillon.fr
Metro: Pont Marie

A Traveler's Haven.

A mountain of books, magazines, maps and postcards waits at Librarie Ulysse, the oldest specialty bookstore about travel in the world. Founded by Catherine Domain, a voracious traveler, who paused in 1971 to set down roots in her home on Ile Saint Louis, she wondered what to do. After searching a dozen bookstores for information on a country as close as Greece, she decided to open a bookstore dedicated to travel. Over 20,000 titles of new and used books fill this tiny shop on rue Saint Louis en l’Ile. On her website, Catherine reports that she begins her 38th year (updated in 2009) in “a good mood” and she continues to be fascinated by both people and books. She is also aware of doing a magnificent job that will soon disappear (what with all the electronic media.) She only asks to be wrong!! While she stated in a 2000 interview, “The Internet is a pain in the neck,” she also realized that it would render all specialty bookstores extinct. See http://www.etudes-francaises.net/entretiens/domain.htm. Catherine adds a personal touch to her site, www.ulysse.fr. On the Events page, events are updated weekly usually on Sunday. If you are searching for a travel resource, you can input your information and receive “le conseile,” French for “advice.” Pessimism about the future is hardly evident at this special place located on rue Saint Louis en l'Ile.

Librarie Ulysse, 26, rue Saint Louis en l’Isle. [4th.]
Metro: Pont Marie
www.ulysse.fr